OK (I’m the same guy who posted with the petg not sticking) Before Yesterday I bought overture petg and I was deceived because I had all kinds 1f issues… But then I tried to put the bed at 90C and the nozzle at like 280 ant it worked… How come i have to print this hot 🔥?
For the crash my hotend just untightened lowering it lower than the bltouch. I use klipper now so the mainboard firmware akaik isn’t responsible for a lot. I have done A LOT of mods which I will list in a reply. For manually level the bed, I just probe 5p times my bed with abl, look at the graph and adjust the knobs in consequence…
Yeah I know it’s hard to troubleshoot without being there,trust me,trust me…
Thanks for your help I guess my filament is better at 280C ¯_( ツ )_/¯
Ok, yeah, forget the paper as far as regular leveling goes with the cr touch. Have you tried confirming your z offset since you changed the nozzle? If you haven’t, it should be fine every time you do something to the hotend.
Also make sure your heat block isn’t stripped out. I had a bitch of a time printing for a while only to discover I had overtightened my middle and stripped out the threads in the heat block. After I replaced it I had consistent good prints again.
Oh don’t worry my z offset is set tight! And for the heat block I always undertihhgened and it leaked everywhere so now I tighten it firmly but not too much to the point of stripping the block
So for the mods:
All in one rear mounted electronics box by Teaching Tech. Glass bed. Skr mini e3 v2. Sprite pro dd extruder. Klipper. Metal bed knobs and springs. PETG printed rear left tension remover. Crtouch. Ikea lack enclosure (not completely done YET). Others I might have missed so I guess it’s not important ¯_( ツ )_/¯
We’ve done many of the same mods. Klipper, Skr, Sprite pro, crtouch. I did the dual z drive mod too, though I have no idea if that’s actually improved anything or not. Probably now that I’ve setup input shaping and have this thing whipping through prints.
Oh I plan getting the dual z as well lol. I tried input shaping and pressure advance. As far as I am concerned I setup pressure advance and it has been going well.
But with input shaper I did not manage to get it working, but in my current setup I believe it is unnecessary because my enclosure is FAR to wobbly and the printer vibrations goes to the entire house, I plan on printing springy feet and attaching the enclosure to the wall so that it does not move.
So my vibrations is so bad that I need physical upgrades to even get it working… And an accelerometer