So…something like 3d printing…

I forgot until looking at your photo that the mini uses a Bowden tube, not direct drive like the MK3S+. Did you replace/switch the nozzle around the time this all started happening? With Bowden tubes, there are a few problems that can arise that you don’t see on direct drive. The end of the Bowden tube (that is inside the extruder/hote end assembly) can get deformed or clogged. If you can check that, you may find an issue. Other than that, when swapping nozzles I always had to put the nozzle in part of the way, then push the Bowden in further, then tighten the nozzle.

My money would be a clogged nozzle. But a better photo (close up) may be helpful. Things I wonder…

Does the filament come out and curl back up during preheat?

Is your heat block messy with residue?

Have you tried a cold pull, or pulling the nozzle and cleaning/replacing it?

Not sure what that means. I never get any messages from TMO unless it’s a bill notification…

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What is an appimage?

When I first started working with 3d modelling (for 3d printed parts), I followed everyone’s advice and got a trial of Fusion. Luckily, I didn’t use it much and when I came back to it, my trial was over. I did not want to use a hobbyist license, just to have things change - so went looking for FOSS alternatives. OpenScad made my brain hurt, but then I found FreeCAD. Definately hard to learn, and for someone new to CAD design - I am learning very slowly.

I watched a ton of videos, but still struggle. My saving grace was that I found the official discord. The users on the discord server can be super helpful with learing the nuance of the platform. Several times I posted a file and askded for help and had an answer within an hour. In fact, I just submitted a screenshot of my sketch with dimensions and someone went ot the trouble of recreating it and fixing my problem…so I recommend you join the server if you are struggling. Link below:

https://discord.gg/uh85ZRNcfk

Yes and on some printers, that spot where the Bowden tube meets the nozzle is very problematic. You have to loosen the nozzle a bit, push the Bowden tub up against it, then tighten the nozzle the rest of the way

It was awful on my Ender clone, but haven’t had that issue on my Prusa.

I had to dig to find where I got the model from. I suppose I should add the link in case anybody wants to give them kudos or print it for themselves.

It was created by Rocket Pig Games: Printables link

That is a very good question. There aren’t any insane overhangs, just a few tricky spots. I had print he same thing smaller, so I knew it would be okay. I think the file actually mentioned in the notes that you COULD print it without support.

Can I ask what settings you had to hone in?

What printer and hot end?

Excellent, thanks for the answer. Block it is!

Was it a kit? Had it been printing before you started getting this issue or was this an issue out of the box?

They let you pay the diff and upgrade to the LTE, I believe.

I have thought a lot about moving to Fi, but I have to good of a deal with T-Mobile right now. 2 lines + 2 free lines, completely unlimited everything, plus netflix and apple tv for $100usd/month If they ever start scaling back my plan (like I hear they may do with this forced plan migration) I am going to hop over.

I pre-ordered, don’t need or want the watch. But I have a Pixel 6 pro I am not using and $400 trade in is so much more than I could get on eBay or Swappa . If you are trading in, it makes sense to do it now, because those increased trade values are temporary for launch

Maybe 🤔

I am not sure. I think as long as your waistband has enough tension to hold the fold in place it should work. Otherwise you may need a belt. Congrats on the wedding.

Looks sharp, I learned a little too late to do the “Military Tuck” when the sides got a bit bunched up. It can really help clean up the look with non tailored shirts.