Still looking for a snake that’s small enough. My normal goto, copper wire, is a challenge to use in small tubes as well.

You’re not wrong.

I’ve noticed that seems to be happening, especially with companies like Amazon, whom I work for, aside from the money they can make from it. That said, we also have an example of that in the form of old Soviet Russia. They had actually eliminated most holidays.

That is also something that I have wondered about, but that probably isn’t a thing because of salt buildup.

That’s actually part of my question. The bowels also dump toxins overboard as well, but will they be enough to do the job?

True, though as is, we still need to take in water due to a shortfall in what we do take in. That said, I’m also wondering if my proposal would also result in other waste products being recirculated and building up in the system, causing their own complications.

I can totally see that, though what if the body was able to adapt to the new configuration and keep the gut bacteria in its place, but the urine still flowed into the bowels for reprocessing? What else would the large intestines pick up aside from water and maybe salt?

Then you’d be right back where you started for my purposes, still losing moisture unnecessarily.

I think that’s called a bicycle.

A cloaca still has facilities for urine to be dumped overboard, doesn’t it? My proposal is to recirculate it before dumping it overboard dry.

I didn’t realize that, though it seems to run fine on my potato (Ryzen 5: 1400, 16GB DDR4, Radeon 6770) with the occasional stutter, locked at 30fps 1080p for the most part. I haven’t tried faster frame rates yet as I’m trying to mirror the feel of the game between both this system and my Deck.

Thanks for verifying.

I haven’t gotten Genshin to work on Linux, though it may be because I just made a passing attempt, expecting a ban. Then again, I only play it once a blue moon anyway.

Crossover and Wine are the OG compatibility layers for Windows gameplay on Linux, and while I can’t vouch for either one now, as Wine is the only one I used–back in the days of the original Unreal, I can say now that Steam’s Proton is fairly straightforward and simple. Pretty much, unless it has some sort of anti-cheat malware, like BattleEye, everything “just works.” … and usually, if the game employs anti-cheat, and they catch you playing (fairly) on Linux, you’re usually banned.

While I know I’m not going to get SLA level detail (which I have given up on for now as I keep busting the LCD of my resin printer every set of prints) I am still hoping I can get to something recognizable, usually at 3x size for the figure, which I could do with the CR10 head and the Spider. Problem is, haven’t been able to even begin to dial in the calibrations, which is what I’m asking for assistance with. Where is a good place to start my tests at?

I do use a dryer on most, if not all of my filament, so I know it isn’t that. Thanks for the tip, though. I literally have a Sonyu dryer with the extrusion nipple of both the top and bottom drilled out to 1/2 inch to get rid of the moisture. I’m able to get it down to 25% humidity at 40c or so inside, and I’ll leave it for days before I print. Same results.

You mean 14 year-long user of Fisher Price products? :3

Why? Those are the best ones.

Looks good, though adhesives are notorious for failing once they get warm a few times, and will fail eventually. I would totally put a couple of screws holding them up. Beyond that, love the setup.