another thing to note… klipper firmware takes the heavy processing typically handled by the printer control board, and offloads the burden onto the computer or device you have hooked up to the printer, processing and feeding the gcode one line at a time. so whatever device you are using needs to be up to the specs. I’m using an rpi 3b+ and have no issues.
this project is awesome. thanks for sharing. now I want a v3
klipper is the firmware flashed to the printer
gui is achieved and accessed through mainsail or octoprint. I haven’t tried octoprint.
mainsail runs on a raspberry pi and can manage multiple klipper printers with one device. you can also add klipperscreen, it’s an addon that can be used with a touchscreen for an interface at the printer (or anywhere really)…
but I just access mine running mainsail through my phone browser or the laptop I use to model and slice. I like orcaslicer because it integrates mainsail right into a tab in the slicer and provides a seamless user experience.
even better, add [screws_tilt_adjust] to take advantage of the crtouch and a little fancy computer math to make leveling super easy.
after configuring the screw locations and thread pitch, execute the command screws_tilt_calculate
https://www.klipper3d.org/Manual_Level.html
ender beds use M4 screws
I ran a couple temp towers with the overture petg and I found 270-275c nozzle/80c bed had the most desirable results. 0.6 nozzle 0.4 layer height. also with the sprite pro.
I printed a couple pretty pieces before I started to get burnt crusty bits showing up in my prints so take this with a grain of salt. maybe due to me changing layer height to 0.14 without further testing.
maybe they are talking about the helicopters you can drive around in too. they don’t have big rotors on top, just basically a little fan in the front to cool the radiator when not in flight mode.
oh wait I’m thinking of a car
the caveat is that it had to once cost money? so stuff that has always been free is no longer available?
typically the fan cooling the heatbreak and extruder stays on even with the “extruder” aka part cooler fan turned off