PS5 Pro is going for 800 EUR so I’ve picked these parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BnpTsh, and it’s almost spot on how much it costs after converting it into USD. (800 EUR = 881.83 USD)

PEI is one of the best surfaces you will ever find to print on, although I believe one type of filament (I think a variation of PLA?) sticks too well and can damage the PEI trying to take prints off…

That’s PETG. I avoid using smooth PEI plates like fire when PETG is loaded. Even after swapping the filament to PLA, little bits of residual PETG can still stick leaving a shadow on the plate. Textured PEI is mostly fine, but single layer stuff like brims are a pain to get off.

From what I understand it tests the minimum retraction distance you need to avoid stringing. The lower you get the less retraction you need. For example, for me usually it stops stringing around 0.4mm retraction (that’s 4mm measured from the hot plate), but found that in real conditions the default 0.6mm works better. I don’t find this test too useful, for me it fails to demonstrate the spectrum between too little and too much retraction, a feature I appreciate in the pressure advance tower. Apparently the moment it stops stringing, anything after that won’t show you anything new and it’s best to stop the print. Either that or I fail to notice any defects when the retraction is relatively high.

Lead ain’t that dangerous. Just take it out and dispose of it like you do with normal batteries. Clean your hands afterwards and you’re dandy. As for the clock, the battery contacts, and whatever they were attached to, are likely eaten away, but I can’t say that for certain from this photo. If you’re lucky and they’re mostly intact, some IPA scrubbing and a dip in vinegar, and a bit more scrubbing, should take most of the crust away. That rust though, probably some vinegar, maybe a deoxidating agent (like navy jelly?) could clean it off. Even cleaning all of it doesn’t guarantee that it’ll work any way.

There’s a request made here. Haven’t seen devs reply yet though.

I’m thinking about getting some of those activated alumina beads. I’ve heard they are both more efficient at absorbing moisture and can be recycled indefinitely without degrading. Sounds like a perfect fit for your setup.

Dry and then store in a controlled environment. I’m using those bog standard cereal containers from Amazon (3,7-4l container should do for 1kg spools). Add some desiccant, spool rollers and a hygrometer and you have yourself a semi-permanent home for your spools. Mine show somewhere between 10% and 15% humidity, so that’s pretty good considering that previously just leaving a spool in open air for a single longer print caused it to soak enough moisture to ooze and string by the end of the print, and that’s in “only” over 40% humidity. So yeah, highly recommended.

Two that I know of that made decent games is K-D Lab that made Perimeter and Vangers (both open sourced and recently remastered), and Nikita responsible for the Parkan series. They’re not by any means greatest hits but they’re unique and worth checking out.

EDIT: And oh, Pathologic by Ice-Pick Lodge too, but I haven’t played those. Those seem funky and definitely not for everyone.

EDIT2: There’s apparently a list of Russian made games on Wikipedia , good to know.

I tried liking KF2 but it just lacks the crispness and the atmosphere of KF1. I also missed the shop lady with her opening shop in the weirdest locations in between rounds. So yeah, KF2 lacks charm IMO and I still like KF1 more even on its aging UE2.5 engine. I don’t think KF3 will find my interest, with all the multiplayer games going “live service” and all.

The model in question has metal screw bosses.

That’s pretty cool. I wish more devices had brass inserts. I kinda hate the idea of screwing into plastic. Anyway, do whatever you feel you need. I don’t think it’d get loose even with daily usage, but I might be wrong.

What does that solve? Isn’t the whole purpose of a threadlocker to keep the screw in place? I can imagine that plastics are soft enough that they keep the screws in place on their own. As far as I know, and from my own experience, there’s been no trouble with screws loosening over time in those consoles, so I don’t know how adding threadlocker would help.

Overtightening screws does that. Plus, transparent plastics tend to be more brittle, so you have to be more careful. Been re-shelling some gameboys and the exact issue cropped up with shells cracking at the screw holes. Guy I follow on youtube recommends screwing them all the way then loosening them a quarter of a turn. Might help lessen the stress.

Exactly this. You’d be surprised how much dust it can collect. After a week or two in my small home it can easily collect a fistful of dust, and that’s just from me alone.

If you’re running it in docker you can just check the logs, I do it like this: docker compose logs -f lemmy, and see if you have requests from any instance in the log stream. For me it goes pretty fast, but you can always ctrl+c to exit and scroll up to see what you’ve missed. Might not be the most optimal way, but it works for me.

Yea, true, water reservoir, top part where coffee gathers, coffee basket, gasket and a filter. No I don’t use soap as you said, only water. I guess I’m just lazy, and doing it in the morning when I’m short on time, playing around with a hot pot is kinda not the thing I’d like to do. That’s why I use a phin most of the time, as it’s just a thin and light piece of steel, and it cools off really quickly, easy to clean and no need to worry about corrosion and sum such. To be honest I’d have to try how it’d work out, as I never used it day to day. I always had this notion that a moka pot, being made out of aluminium, doesn’t like to sit in water. I don’t know for sure how true it is, but to be on the safe side I always rinsed it thoroughly and wiped it dry. Maybe I was overdoing it?

Same, my 3tz takes 18 grams. Also taking it off is kinda tricky cause of thermal inertia. Pot is still hot enough to boil the water after taking it off the heat, but that might be due to its higher mass. Anyway, experiment, making coffee is fun.

Had to come back home from work. I guess calling it “intense” would be appropriate. I’ve missed the coffee fountain, the bubbles and the thick black coffee that this method produces. What I don’t miss is the waiting and watching, cause it won’t turn itself off when it’s done, and the eventual hassle of cleaning the pot and all its parts every time I want a coffee. Oh well, nature of the beast I guess. Still, worth going through it when one craves a strong cup of coffee.

Ohh, haven’t done that in forever. Now I miss making coffee this way. I guess I’ll dust off my pot today, see if it still brews good.

Yea, I had to make a crontab task that resets lemmy every day. Hope it gets fixed in the future but for now it sorta works.

This may help: Container compatibility. MKV files will be remuxed when played via WebUI. Try playing an MP4 file and see if it’s the same.