Ok guys, I’m breaking down and posting here to see if anyone has any ideas. I’m greatful for any advice.

I have an upgraded flsun SR. I recently lost my computer (psu issue, waiting for replacement) and I took this opportunity to switch from Cura to Orcaslicer.

Over-all I’m very happy, and getting some good speeds, but I just cannot remove stringing no matter what I try:

  • Retraction from 0-7mm. After about 3mm, no further effect
  • Retraction speed from 30mm/s-50mm/s. No noticable effect
  • Travel speed and acceleration both high (up to 350mm/s and 6000 accel. No effect
  • Temp from 205-215 with no effect
  • Dried filament and different colours, no effect
  • Wipe on retract on and off, up to 2mm wipe distance and 100% retraction. No effect
  • Messed with scarf seams on and off, no effect
  • No effect from layer heights

My setup:

  • Printer - FLSun SR running klipper with a speede pad
  • Filament - Esun PLA+
  • Upgrades - Deported fans, OMG v2 extruder, volcano hotend and high flow cht nozzle
  • rambos@lemm.eeEnglish
    3·
    6 months ago

    lemann gave some good points. Since you already tried so many things like lower temp than recommended and drying, I guess bowden tube might be loose (there should be no play at all). Or just a bad filament? I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.

    What size of the nozzle you use? Bigger nozzle = more stringing

    It is hard to avoid stringing with PETG, but for PLA it shouldn’t be a problem at all. My bowden extruder with 3 mm retraction has 0 stringing with Polymaker Polyterra PLA. Even with 1 mm stringing is almost gone completely. I found Polymaker much better with stringing than DevilDesign or AzureFilm that I used before.

    • Rangelus@lemmy.nzOPEnglish
      2·
      6 months ago

      I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.

      I’ve generally had the best results with it. Ironically, before the upgrades I had almost no stringing.

      I’m using a 0.4mm nozzle. I probably should have mentioned in the OP that I didn’t have problems before, but the upgrades have happened in addition to moving to Orcaslicer.

      Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…

      • rambos@lemm.eeEnglish
        3·
        6 months ago

        Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…

        Just pull/push the tube with your hands. If there is no play you are good, but if there is:

        1. Inspect the bowden tube ends and cut them if they are worn out
        2. Push the bowden tube in the fitting.
        3. While pushing it in, press the collet down
        4. Then pull it out with a nail and then zip tie it

        I found original clips too thin, zip ties are much better IMO. It helped me remove stringing completely while using half of the retraction distance (using 0.6 nozzle)

        • Rangelus@lemmy.nzOPEnglish
          1·
          6 months ago

          After sleeping on it, I remembered that my new heatbreak doesn’t feed the bowden all the way to the end of the nozzle like the stock one does, so I’m pretty sure I have it seated correctly. I’ll check it though, many thanks for the info! :)

    • Rangelus@lemmy.nzOPEnglish
      3·
      6 months ago

      Hey mate, I keep my filament in a dry cabinet at 5ish% humidity, and I’ve had the same results with two different filaments in there. I even chucked my filament in a food dehydrator at 40C for 12h with no effect. I’m pretty sure the filament is dry!

      • AwkwardLookMonkeyPuppet@lemmy.worldEnglish
        2·
        6 months ago

        Drat. I had the same issue as you and nothing was working, despite thinking my filament was dry since it was brand new. I finally dried it in a filament dryer and the problem went away. So, that’s usually my first recommendation. Sorry it doesn’t help you.

        • Rangelus@lemmy.nzOPEnglish
          2·
          6 months ago

          It’s all good mate! Thanks for the suggestion. When I first started printing I had that exact issue.