At this point, it’s unclear whether the issues are one-offs or systemic.

At this point, it’s unclear whether the issues are one-offs or systemic.

    • Telorand@reddthat.comEnglish
      29·
      3 months ago

      I got a dime. Also, the monkey’s paw just curled another finger, but that’s not important.

  • .Donuts@lemmy.worldEnglish
    526·
    3 months ago

    The person on reddit used a third party cable instead of the one supplied with the device.

    https://www.extremetech.com/gaming/psa-dont-use-third-party-power-cables-on-your-2000-nvidia-rtx-5090-gpu

    https://www.reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/1ilhfk0/rtx_5090fe_molten_12vhpwr/

    It melted on both sides (PSU and GPU), which indicates it was probably the cable being the issue.

    12VHPWR is a fucking mess, so please don’t tempt fate with your expensive purchase.

    • Psythik@lemmy.worldEnglish
      251·
      3 months ago

      What I’ve learned from this whole fiasco after owning a problem-free 4090 for over 2 years:

      1. Don’t use 3rd party connectors, and don’t use the squid adapter in the box. Use the 12VHPR cable that came with your PSU or GPU. If your PSU doesn’t have a 12VHPR connection, get one that does.
      2. Don’t bend the cable near the connection. Make sure your case is actually big enough to avoid bending.
      3. Make sure it’s actually plugged in all the way. If you didn’t hear a click, it’s not plugged in all the way.
      4. Don’t keep disconnecting the cable to check for burns. The connection is weak and designed to fail after only a handful of disconnect/reconnects. If you followed the 3 steps above perfectly, you have nothing to worry about.

      That said, I’m skipping this GPU generation (and most likely the next one as well). Hopefully in 2-4 years AMD or Intel will be on more level grounds with nVidia so that I can finally stop giving them money just to have good ray tracing performance.

      • orclev@lemmy.worldEnglish
        13·
        3 months ago

        I got lucky and picked up a 7900 XTX for a reasonable price last gen and it’s been a really great card. I’ve got a couple systems coming up on needing a refresh (1080 Ti and a 2080 Ti) and I’m planning on upgrading both of them to a 9070 XT. I’m staying away from Nvidia until they start pricing their GPUs at prices actual consumers can afford instead of corporations looking to build AI farms.

    • InnerScientist@lemmy.worldEnglish
      41·
      3 months ago

      So, when is the first party cable going to be launched? The device only hast an adapter shipped with it, which won’t help you connect to the PSU 12VHPWR.

  • just_another_person@lemmy.worldEnglish
    28·
    3 months ago

    Well…I mean…that’s kind of bound to happen when you draw 600W into a device that size I suppose. I feel like they’ve had this issue with every *090 card, whether it be cables or otherwise.

  • Kazumara@discuss.tchncs.deEnglish
    8·
    3 months ago

    I can really recommend both der8auers video and Buildzoids video on this. Der8auer has good thermal imaging of imbalanced current between the wires between two 12V HPWR plugs, and Buildzoid has the explanation why the current can’t be balanced with the current setup on 5090s.

  • Amanduh@lemm.eeEnglish
    5·
    3 months ago

    I never get the newest thing, people who buy brand new stuff are just beta testers for the product imo

  • beeb@lemm.eeEnglish
    2·
    3 months ago

    A handful? Wow that’s gotta be like 50% of the 50 series out there!

    • Schmuppes@lemmy.todayEnglish
      3·
      3 months ago

      The problem seems to be load balancing, or lack thereof. A German guy on YouTube noticed that his cable got up to 150°C at the PSU end, due to one wire delivering 20 or 22 amps, while the others were getting a lot less pumped through them. 22 Ampere is pretty much half the power draw of the card, through one wire instead of three if the load was properly balanced between them. That’s why it ran so hot and melted to shit.

      If you’ve ever worked on your car’s 12 V electrics system, you’ll know how thick the wires (and corresponding connector sizes) are for things like window defrosters that will run through a 20 or 30 amp fuse.