They’re like that in this apartment we’re renting and I keep seeing them elsewhere. I don’t get it.

  • lime!@feddit.nu
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    the UK power grid is weird. mostly due to echoes of the war. used to be that, to save copper, the entire house and sometimes multiple houses on a street would be wired as one big loop of wire, no fuse box or anything. that’s where the individually fused plugs and switched sockets come from. then, since it turned out to be quite a good idea for safety, they kept doing it.

    • .Donuts@lemmy.world
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      This is the answer. When all sockets are connected to one big loop, there’s fuses in each socket to prevent a device from screwing with the whole system.

    • palordrolap@fedia.io
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      This isn’t strictly true. Most houses built between WWII and the '90s were built with sockets that didn’t have switches on them. It was only later safety regulations / suggestions that made the switches preferable.

      Where I live was built in the late '80s right before switched sockets became more common. All the original sockets have no switch. Some in the kitchen have switches, but it’s clear these were added at a later date.

      I’m not sure of the exact rulings and where and when a socket must have a switch, but you can still find switchless sockets for sale at the sorts of retailers who sell those sorts of things, so there are definitely places where those sockets are still allowed.

    • skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de
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      eastern block solution to copper shortages was to wire houses with aluminum instead of copper. this avoided all that bizarre bullshit that brits do, and in principle it’s a good idea since aluminum is used for big time power distribution as well. this worked pretty well until it was noticed that under some conditions hot spots can form on connections over time, requiring replacement of connectors. it’s still legal to use aluminum wires in some places, but copper is more common now

      • 1rre@discuss.tchncs.de
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        No - there’s fuses in the plugs themselves, the switch is largely for convenience and safety - if you want to unplug something broken and potentially live, it’s much safer to switch it off at the wall than risk a shock given the current limit is on the breaker is so high

          • skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de
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            fuse is in plug and accessible only when plug is disconnected

            it’s also a very weird thing because fuses are supposed to protect what is downstream of them. so effectively fuse in plug protects cord and appliance only, not the wires in the wall. there’s breaker box for this

            • x4740N@lemm.ee
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              It is safer for the fuse to be in the plug for those people who think they are electricians and end up causing house fires or bzzzt’ing themselves

              • skillissuer@discuss.tchncs.de
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                i understand that it’s remnant from times when fusebox wasn’t a thing and it was an attempt at protecting ring circuit, that’s all. it makes little sense

          • bdonvr@thelemmy.club
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            The screw to get to it is supposed to be on the side that would be facing the wall when plugged in so no

    • Valmond@lemmy.world
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      When I bought the apartment I’m living in, the previous owner had refused all modernisation, even legal ones (he had mental problems), so the appartment had the original 1 hot wire going everywhere, you just “tapped” off power where you wanted to to ground. 1959 era.

    • Wanderer@lemm.ee
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      Why are people saying this?

      I’ve lived in multiple UK houses and never once seen a socket with a fuse. Are you saying this was change way way back in the day?

      All houses have fuse boxes (which then got upgraded to circuit breakers). Not one fuses in sockets. Would be a fucking nightmare to take the socket off and change a fuse.

      • cecilkorik@lemmy.ca
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        The fuse is actually in the UK plug (the big brick-like thing with the wire on it), not the socket. But yes, it’s a thing, and most of the rest of the world considers it overkill. Also a lot of cheap junky equipment (ironically the stuff where you’d most want the fuse) omits the fuse in the plug, go figure.

        • Wanderer@lemm.ee
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          Yea I know, I’ve wired a plug.

          Never seen a fuse in a socket though. That comment is completely wrong and yet it’s the most up voted reply.

          Never seen a house without a fuse box either.

              • silasmariner@programming.dev
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                Lol yeah can only imagine what playing ‘hunt the bad device’ would’ve been like back when those boxes had actual fuses on them. (That’s the game where the main circuit breaker gets tripped and you have to figure out first what ring it’s on, and then which specific item is tripping it)

          • x4740N@lemm.ee
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            Didn’t the uk used to have appliances without plugs that you’d need to wire yourself If inrecalling that Tom Scott video correctly

    • x4740N@lemm.ee
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      Sorry but I’m going to need a source on that because there is no evidence of that being the reason UK plug sockets have switches

      Other countries have switches on their sockets, Australia being one because I live here

      Switches on sockets do make a ton on sense though for safety reasons for example if you need to quickly isolate electricity from the switch and the breaker hasn’t done anything

      Switches also prevent arcing when you pull out a plug if an appliance doesn’t have an off switch and you can switch something off that you use commonly say a kettle but don’t unplug because you use it commonly so theirs less chance of an electrical fault happening while no one is there and its also the same reason I’ll demand an isolation switch be installed on electric stoves just incase the dail on the stove fails and the stove turns on

      • lime!@feddit.nu
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        looking for a source is not hard. anyone can do it.

        switches are not required by the bs1363 standard. the provision for them only arrived in the 1960s. there.

  • RandomUser@lemmy.world
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    Allows you to remove power from the plugged in device without unplugging it. This provides convenience to easily and quickly turn things on and off and prevents arcing when unplugging. 240V 13A can arc a bit, particularly if unplugged under load, or on older sockets where the contacts have worn. While a little arcing doesn’t do much damage immediately, over time it will cause pitting and make a high resistance joint that will generate heat.

    The switch only disconnects the live terminal, but the neutral terminal should be similar potential to earth (depending on how the building is wired).

    Truly the king of plugs and sockets. The plugs are individually fused according to the device needs, ergonomic to use and exciting to stand on.

    • tourist@lemmy.world
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      Allows you to remove power from the plugged in device without unplugging it. This provides convenience to easily and quickly turn things on and off and prevents arcing when unplugging.

      That’s exactly what I do, because it’s more convenient than unplugging everything.

      I live in South Africa, where we had rolling blackouts (called loadshedding) for a few years. It’s easier to switch everything back on when the power comes back than to plug it back into a socket without a switch, especially with my fucked up spine.

      The electricity in the place I live was done poorly, so having something plugged in “live” risks a surge or something and then the appliance gets fucked and then everything smells like burnt plastic.

      And that’s the best case scenario. Others have had housefires.

      Also, the South African plugs aren’t pleasant accidentally to step on. It won’t pierce your foot, but it can still hurt like a motherfucker for a few seconds if you step on it in the wrong way.

      Those UK plugs do look a lot more nasty to step on. I shudder at the thought.

      I like the EU and US two prong cables ( 🔌?) where the prongs are parallel to the cable, but not the cables with the orthogonal prongs.

      • grue@lemmy.world
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        I like the EU and US two prong cables ( 🔌?) where the prongs are parallel to the cable, but not the cables with the orthogonal prongs.

        Non-grounded plugs aren’t that great, though, and once you add the third prong the plug gets much less flat. Compare:

        Maybe Italy and Chile have the best idea in terms of slim grounded plugs, although the lack of polarity might be a problem?


        Also, IMO right-angle plugs are often better than straight ones because you can put furniture closer up against them and do so without stressing the cable.

        • tourist@lemmy.world
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          right-angle plugs are often better than straight ones because you can put furniture closer up against them and do so without stressing the cable.

          Yeah that is definitely a huge bonus. I’ve taken it for granted.

          We’re slowly adopting three pronged Italian/Chilean-type plugs that will be “backwards-compatible” with the EU plugs. I have no clue about polarity or anything like that.

          New sockets include em. The original three pronged socket is kind of a hazard. Kids can stick their fingers in there. Not sure how that got approved.

    • Etterra@discuss.online
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      Makes sense, American lie voltage (outlets) are 120V. 240V is considered high voltage and isn’t typically fed into residential units. Plugging anything rated for 120V into a 240V outlet is gonna be a bad time, and is why the outlets for high voltage are shaped differently.

      I was gonna guess that the switches were too negate so-called vampire power, which is when a truck’s of electricity flows into appliances that are normally off. IMO that trickle is so negligible in a residence that is 6 effectively irrelevant, but that’s just here in the US. I don’t know anything about foreign electrical systems.

      • timbuck2themoon@sh.itjust.works
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        240 is used all the time for furnaces, driers, and increasingly EV outlet connections.

        It’s just all our “normal” stuff is 120.

        • Empricorn@feddit.nl
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          I wish our electric kettle outlets were 240. I’m unreasonably jealous that other places in the world can boil water faster!

          • pixelscript@lemm.ee
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            I think you can have it, but you’d need to spend a pretty penny.

            All it would take is calling an electrician to run the appropriate wiring from the place you want the kettle plugged in to you breaker box, connect it to the breaker box with the appropriate breaker, cap off the other end with the appropriate plug (a 240V plug does exist in America), and then buy a kettle capable of receiving the rated voltage and current and splice on the appropriate plug (because I presume you won’t find one sold with that plug).

            An extremely expensive way to save maybe three minutes boiling water, but you can do it.

  • Blackmist@feddit.uk
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    So we can turn the power on and off.

    Why else would you have a switch next to a power socket?

    • Flying Squid@lemmy.worldOP
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      Most of the places in the world I have been to do without them, or at least did when I was there, so it confused me. But some people have given good explanations now.

      • Scott_of_the_Arctic@lemmy.world
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        Open one up. There’s also a fuse connected to the live wire. The amperage is dependent on the normal draw of the appliance. Just added safety features. Also the live and neutral holes only open up if you put the earth in first (that’s why it’s longer). British plugs are arguably the safest… Unless you leave them prongs up and step on it accidentally. That makes stepping on Lego feel like a shag carpet.

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          It seems a bit overengineered for little gain compared to good old schuko imo

          • Ibuthyr@lemmy.wtf
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            You were down voted for whatever reason. These outlets are complete bullshit. You have your safeties in the electrical cabinet and then you make sure to wire your house according to certain standards. Schuko is leagues ahead of this crap. Modern Schuko sockets will only allow anything to enter, when both prongs are inserted at the same time. If you do happen to short anything, the FI switch (no idea what it’s called in English) will cut the power before anything can happen.

    • grue@lemmy.world
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      The real question is why did the UK decide that on the outlet itself is the best place for that switch, as opposed to e.g. in the US where outlets are sometimes wired to a switch located next to the door to the room?

      • KryptonBlur@slrpnk.net
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        Switches located next to the door are for lighting, as opposed to switches on the socket which mean you can fully turn off your rice cooker without unplugging it. We do sometimes have sockets in the UK with the switch at the door, but they are usually a different shape socket that is designed for a lower current and is only intended to be used for floor lamps.

        • grue@lemmy.world
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          1. Okay, that makes sense.
          2. Wait, your lamps use a different plug? That seems needlessly limiting/inconvenient.
          • rmuk@feddit.uk
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            The specific-plugs-for-lamps think is very rare these days. The reason for it is that it’s not uncommon for our plugs to be on a high amperage circuit - sometimes 30A, occasionally higher - that can’t be safely controlled with a light switch or similar, so the lamp-only circuit will be capped at, say, 3A with unusual plugs to avoid someone trying to connect a tumble dryer.

      • Aggravationstation@feddit.uk
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        Having a switch next to the door would be useful if you’re using that socket for a lamp but not if you’re using them for anything else. In my kitchen the sockets for my under counter oven and fridge are under the counter and the switches are above it so I can easily access them.

        • kent_eh@lemmy.ca
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          Having a switch next to the door would be useful if you’re using that socket for a lamp

          That is specifically what switched outlets in north America are intended to be used for.

    • polarpear11@lemmy.world
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      Why can’t you just unplug it? If you have to go to the socket anyway… maybe I don’t understand because I’ve never lived with the convenience?

      • Michal@programming.dev
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        It’s easier to flip the switch to turn it back on than to fumble with the plug. You can get a variant without the switches if you don’t like, or simply leave the switch always on.

      • rarbg@lemmy.zip
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        Lots of wall warts suck down 5w unused. I could see this being nice

      • Blackmist@feddit.uk
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        Depends on the device.

        Something like a vacuum, sure. You’re probably going to move it around anyway.

        But I used to have a Spectrum computer, and it had no power switch. If you plugged it in then it was just on. Much simpler to power off at the switch than unplug it and risk the plug falling down the back of the table into a rats nest of cables.

        Plus I guess it’s one more step a toddler needs to do to electrocute themselves…

        • Nibodhika@lemmy.world
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          Maybe this was meant to be a joke, but that’s not how it works. If it were the switch would also not do anything, because what the switch does is exactly the same as unplugging the thing, i.e. cut a piece of the wire out.

          Edit: unless you meant for safety reasons, in which case the shutter inside is a lot safer than the button.

          • reddit_sux@lemmy.world
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            A switch shuts the supply to the socket. Even after unplugging the socket does have electric supply, i.e. it is live. If any metallic object is inserted into the live socket it can give you a worse shock. Since the voltage supply in UK is 220V not 110V.

            Shutter inside is much safer than button but is slightly costlier.

  • JimVanDeventer@lemmy.world
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    I like them, personally. You don’t have to use them but they are sometimes handy. I just spent 30 seconds feeling around a TV to turn it off only to discover it doesn’t have buttons. Killed it at the wall.

    It’s not a deal breaker, in any case. The weird foreign convention I would like to shame is doors that require a key to open from the inside.

    • Squeebee@lemm.ee
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      I usually see keyed from the inside locks when there is glass in/near the door to prevent someone from breaking the glass, reaching in and unlocking the door.

    • Flying Squid@lemmy.worldOP
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      I just spent 30 seconds feeling around a TV to turn it off only to discover it doesn’t have buttons.

      Ugh. That annoys the shit out of me. Our dog chewed up the TV remote when she was a puppy, but only got to the power button. But since the TV had no physical buttons, we couldn’t turn it on and off anymore until we got a new remote.

      • Glitterbomb@lemmy.world
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        I have an old android phone I keep around because it has an IR LED on top and I loaded it with a few free universal remote apps. They all work offline and it’s come in handy so many times.

    • Kusimulkku@lemm.ee
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      The weird foreign convention I would like to shame is doors that require a key to open from the inside.

      Huh. Where have you seen those? Seems dangerous.

      • Blackmist@feddit.uk
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        We mostly just leave the key in them unless I’m going on holiday.

        If somebody is going to steal my stuff while I’m away, I’m going to make them work for it.

      • Rivalarrival@lemmy.today
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        They’re used where there are windows close enough that, if broken by an intruder, the intruder would be able to operate the lock.

        The better solution is, of course, to not use such doors.

    • Owl@mander.xyz
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      The weird foreign convention I would like to shame is doors that require a key to open from the inside

      You can’t lock yourself out with those

          • cecilkorik@lemmy.ca
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            No you can’t. You can lock yourself out, but a typical residential house built to code in North America has a latch handle that always turns from the inside, even when locked, and usually unlocks by doing so to prevent accidental lock-outs. And likewise if the door has a deadbolt, it must have a deadbolt with a handle on the inside. Most other kinds of locks are also easily accessible and removed by hand from the inside. The point is that they can’t require a key from the inside, because if you can’t find the key then you are locked inside and in thick smoke and fire that the key may be impossible to reach. If any egress door requires a key to unlock from the inside it is considered a serious fire hazard and will never pass a code inspection. (Of course, foolish people can still add them later but you can’t prevent stupid and it’s still a fire hazard not to mention impractical)

            These types of building code and fire code rules are typically written in blood. People have died because of this.

            • avattar@lemmy.sdf.org
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              All house doors/egress doors in Brazil require keys to unlock. BUT (and it’s a big but) most houses here are made of bricks, with ceramic roofs.

              It does make sense to have easy-to-escape houses when they are built of flammable materials with an accelerant for a roof.

    • subignition@fedia.io
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      We do have ground fault circuit interrupt (GFCI) outlets, which are required when a socket is within a certain distance of a water source but can be installed on all outlets if you want. They have a little breaker inside that trips automatically if it detects a problematic difference in current flow.

      They’re not on/off switches but you could press the “test” button on the outlet to break the circuit.

      I’ve also seen some whole outlets that are switched on/off from a light switch elsewhere in the room. Those are super annoying because there’s no required indication that they work that way so you get to find out for yourself.

    • rumba@lemmy.zip
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      We just don’t unplug anything ever. We usually have an room that’s on a wall switch near the lights.

    • snooggums@lemmy.world
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      Sometimes we have specific plugs that are wired to a wall switch that can be used to turn those specific outlets on and off. All the examples I know of are for standing lamps, so they can be turned on an off like ceiling lights.

      I’ve only seen this a few times, including my current house.

      • bobs_monkey@lemm.ee
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        It’s been code for a long time that every room must have a switched lighting source, and before recessed lights became more common or if the original builder didn’t put a ceiling light or wall sconce, you’d have a switched outlet for a lamp. Typically it’s only half of one outlet though, unless your house was wired by a crackhead like mine.

        • snooggums@lemmy.world
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          Not having a switched light source makes some sense as most of the rooms in my house had ceiling fans without lights installed, which we switched to fans with lights. There was an extra switch for the light in the ceiling fan that didn’t do anything until we put it in. The switches did go to the lower plug on a couple of outlets, which was fun to figure out since we hadn’t come across it before!

          We also have one switch that goes to an outlet about eight foot up on a wall that I assume was for some decoration to make it easier to turn on and off.

          • bobs_monkey@lemm.ee
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            You, ceiling fan outlets count for that requirement, though it’s entertaining when people install a fan without a light and wonder why their switch doesn’t control a light lol. Any time I install a ceiling fan outlet, we always run a 3(+ground) wire cable, two switched power legs, for independent control of lights and fan.

            • snooggums@lemmy.world
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              I am so glad they wired it for a potential future light separate from the fan!

              They sure skimped on a bunch of other stuff though, like a couple bathroom lights don’t have proper mounting boxes because they didn’t put a 2x4 in the right place and are just mounted to the drywall.

              • bobs_monkey@lemm.ee
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                Yeah that happens sometimes, although there is a possibility that a previous owner added a switch after the fact, and had to install a larger box. Some guys will screw a nail-on box to the original mounting stud, but it’s just as easy to add an old work box (the ones with the mounting wings) and call it a day.

        • gazter@aussie.zone
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          Only half of one outlet? That sounds super frustrating. I think it would take me a while to discover that the random light switch that doesn’t do anything is related to the power point where only one side charges my phone.

          • bobs_monkey@lemm.ee
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            Yeah, it makes sense from a functional standpoint, being that often you’ll only want to switch on lamp, while having full constant functionality of the other plug.

            You basically break that tab between the two screws, then wire the constant power to one, and the switch leg to the other.

            But yeah, it’s not always consistent where that outlet is located within a room. Like I have the tools to figure it out pretty quick, but you basically just have to take a lamp and plug it into each outlet with the switch off until you find it.

            • gazter@aussie.zone
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              Yeah, I like the idea of being able to switch floor lamps and what not from the doorway. No-one likes the big light, right?

              Not sure if I like it enough to implement it in my dream home though. Possibly with some kind of different shaped plug, or a colour code that matches the switch?

              • bobs_monkey@lemm.ee
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                My plan for when we build is to run flex conduit for everything, so that if a want to add or move a switched outlet, the option is there.

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    2 months ago

    Safety, easier to switch things off without unplugging them. Why not have one if it’s more convenient? Not all of them have switches though.

    • glimse@lemmy.world
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      2 months ago

      It made a lot more sense when things didn’t have their own power switches but…what does that apply to anymore? How many devices do you own that are powered off exclusively by unplugging it? Why pay for the manufacturing time and material to add a switch if nothing uses it anymore?

      • tiramichu@lemm.ee
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        2 months ago

        There are still times where it’s convenient. I have some display cases with integrated lighting and the inline switches are incoveniently between the case and the wall so its super handy to turn it on and off at the plug.

        Being able to turn things off at the plug also reduces standby/phantom power when things are in sleep, which for some devices adds up more energy usage than you’d think.

        Sometimes when people go on holiday for two weeks they like to disconnect the electrical items in their house for safety. With switched sockets you can just turn them off instead.

        I’m sure I could live just fine without switched sockets, but it’s convenient they are there.

      • gazter@aussie.zone
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        2 months ago

        Fridge, washing machine, dishwasher, television, phone charger, robovac dock, lamps, computer monitor, aquarium pump… I could go on.

        It’s not strictly necessary, but it’s a convenience.

        • glimse@lemmy.world
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          2 months ago

          Most of those have power buttons and, aside from the charger and vacuum, those things are supposed to stay on.

          I meant more things like lamps that you actually turn on and off…And the majority lamps have switches nowadays, I’m not sure why you included it on your list

          • gazter@aussie.zone
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            2 months ago

            We’re getting into the weeds a little bit here, but there’s a lot of things that have power buttons that will put the thing into standby, not off. I’ve often done a ‘hard reset’ on my ‘smart’ tv when it starts acting up, just gotta cut the power.

            It’s a small convenience, but it’s nice. I’ll happily pay the extra three cents in manufacturing costs for something that lasts decades and may be occasionally mildly helpful.

  • Noel_Skum@sh.itjust.works
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    2 months ago

    UK household electricity is pretty spicy compared to many other places - it has more safety features as a result. (3 pinned fused plug, socket switches etc)

    • lud@lemm.ee
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      2 months ago

      Isn’t it just 230v 50 Hz like most of the world?

      Apparently around 65-70 % of the world population (with access to electricity) has 230v 50 Hz.

        • Buffalox@lemmy.world
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          2 months ago

          Do they have the wiring on the outside of the houses so it’s easier to repair?
          I’ve heard in UK they tend to do such things.

          • d00ery@lemmy.world
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            No, it’s usually buried in the wall behind the plasterboard. Although it is possible to use surface trunking. It’s quicker and therefore cheaper to use trunking with less making good afterwards

            • Buffalox@lemmy.world
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              2 months ago

              It was a joke on UK putting water pipes on the outside of their houses.
              Making them sometimes freeze and burst in the winter, but it’s easier to repair. 😋

              • dbx12@programming.dev
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                2 months ago

                Well duh, they freeze and burst in winter so they obviously need to be outside for easier repair! Think of the mess they would make if they were inside the walls.

        • cynar@lemmy.world
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          2 months ago

          In our defence, most of that is legacy from the post war rebuild (copper shortages etc). The modern regs are comparable or better than a lot of places.

          There’s enough of the dodgy stuff around that it needs to be accounted for, but it’s being phased out as new stuff it built or renovated.

        • hovercat@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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          2 months ago

          And Japan, and Canada, and Mexico, and the majority of South America, and a handful of countries in Africa and the Middle East.

      • Noel_Skum@sh.itjust.works
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        2 months ago

        I was mainly referring to almost all of the American continent(s), lots of Africa, China and a few other places too. I didn’t think I’d mentioned Europe.

    • jonne@infosec.pub
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      2 months ago

      The rest of Europe has 220V as well and they don’t have switches on their outlets.

    • lordnikon@lemmy.world
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      2 months ago

      I have been with 110v plenty of times used to wire houses in my youth. Been hit once with 220v knocked me on my ass for 3 days. I stopped being so cavalier after that I wish they had those outlets vs the midevil outlets the US has.

  • slurp@programming.dev
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    2 months ago

    Great for turning off a device or several devices without having to unplug (e.g. if the sockets are behind a bookcase, this is much more convenient). Not a super common need but when it saves moving furniture it helps. Given that UK switches are tougher to plug in and unplug than most (due to safety features), I prefer using a switch. Also, the switches are cheap and give more options, so may as well!

    I rely on one for a light where the switch broke and wasn’t easily replaceable, so being able to fall back on the mains switch meant I can keep using the light.

    • Chronographs@lemmy.zip
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      2 months ago

      It’s not about having a switch it’s about having the switch right next to the plug instead of next to the doorway (where it usually is in the US)

      • frazorth@feddit.uk
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        2 months ago

        You have a switch for your electrical sockets by your door? What a weird place to put them all.

        We have our light switches by the door. Much more useful.

        • sevan@lemmy.ca
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          It’s common in the U.S., especially in apartments, to have rooms with no light fixtures. Instead, there will be one outlet that is wired to a switch by the door. That outlet is sometimes upside down to distinguish it from the other outlets. That gives you the option to connect a lamp to the switch to get the same result as having a light fixture. I would generally prefer that every room has a light fixture on the ceiling, but this is marginally better than having to walk across a dark room to turn on a lamp.

          • Kelly@lemmy.world
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            2 months ago

            Huh, TIL.

            Here in Australia every house I’ve been in that has an electrical connection has had a light of some form mounted on the ceiling of each room of the main structure.

            It just shows how any assumptions we might make will be proved wrong at a global scale.

        • Chronographs@lemmy.zip
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          2 months ago

          I mean there can be either outlets or light fixtures connected to them, generally the switched outlets have lamps plugged in though.

          • frazorth@feddit.uk
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            2 months ago

            And we have that too.

            We are talking about standard sockets, they all have off switches on the socket.

        • Count Regal Inkwell@pawb.social
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          2 months ago

          As I understand it (thanks technology connections), the sockets linked to light switches are made that way in case you want to have like a floor or desk lamp and turn it on when you enter the room

  • takeheart@lemmy.world
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    2 months ago

    I like the integration of the switch, should be standard. I use many switch plug-ins just to avoid stand-by consumption (it really adds up over the year) and to avoid high pitch humming on some devices.

    YSK: there’s also remote controls for these switches, very handy 1000083879

  • cooljimy84@lemmy.world
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    2 months ago

    Being a uk person its cause they can & its also in to building / electric code. Its just a switch that breaks the live leg, stops sparking when plugging in stuff.

      • Flying Squid@lemmy.worldOP
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        2 months ago

        I’ve definitely had that happen to me, sort of at random, in the U.S.

        But it doesn’t seem to have any effect. It’s not like a gigantic spark and it’s pretty contained.

          • Fermion@feddit.nl
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            2 months ago

            Laptop power bricks is probably where I see it most. Or if you plug in something with a motor already switched on. Listen for a soft popping noise if you plug in a big power brick.

              • cecilkorik@lemmy.ca
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                2 months ago

                Many, many big power-smoothing capacitors inside those jumping from 0 to 120V in a microsecond, that’s why. The better-smoothed the power supply, the more capacitors and the bigger the sparks tend to be, although some really high quality ones put most of them behind inrush-current limiters to reduce the sparking, but that can also marginally reduce efficiency. High power electronics are always a bit of a tradeoff. The problem is that capacitors charge and discharge almost instantly in most cases, and when empty they act like a short circuit until they’re filled, so they can create some pretty big sparks, even though the actual energy going in is minuscule by any reasonable measurement. It’s almost like a static shock, huge spark, tiny energy.

                Some motors will also spark badly when disconnected, but the reason is slightly different. They have a huge electromagnetic field which suddenly fills or collapses and that inductance in the coils can draw a lot of amps on startup and generate some pretty high voltages, more than enough to spark across the gap. Like the capacitors, they are very nearly a short circuit until they start moving.

          • Log in | Sign up@lemmy.world
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            2 months ago

            Home electricity in North America has roughly half the voltage as elsewhere in the world, and double the voltage is double the arcing potential, so that figures.

      • Skua@kbin.earth
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        2 months ago

        No, unless something is very wrong. I don’t know if that was maybe a bigger problem with older devices though. I remember being taught to turn the socket off before plugging things in or taking them out when I was a kid

      • bluGill@fedia.io
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        2 months ago

        All will if there is a load. Doesn’t matter ac of dc or even load. Plug an ethernet cable in and there will be a spark.

        Most of the time the spark is tiny and you need a good lab to measure it though.

  • Rhaedas@fedia.io
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    2 months ago

    No one seemed to mention the important fact that UK and I think most Europe is a higher voltage than the US. Tom Scott as well as Technology Connections have some good videos on the whys and differences it causes.

    • Mr_Blott@feddit.uk
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      2 months ago

      Weird that you think anywhere other than North America has 110v electric

      I think Japan has but literally every other country is 230

      • Successful_Try543@feddit.org
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        2 months ago

        As on the Wikipedia map, you see it’s essentially North and Central America, Japan, Taiwan and some Pacific islands plus some countries where there is a mix of standards.

        https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/70/World_Map_of_Mains_Voltages_and_Frequencies%2C_Detailed.svg/1600px-World_Map_of_Mains_Voltages_and_Frequencies%2C_Detailed.svg.png?20240228195012

        • cecilkorik@lemmy.ca
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          It’s also kind of misleading. This map labels North America as 115-120V like everyone always does, when in fact it’s ALSO a 240V system, it’s just that the “common” plug and the “typical” circuit don’t use it, they only use half of a center-tapped 240V line. So that’s the “standard” they choose to use to label the whole system.

          But it’s kind of unfair. It’s 240V coming into the house just like everywhere else in the world, except you also get the choice for it to be 120V. Being split-phase makes it easy to run multiple 120V circuits with a minimum of wire and still allows 240V for high-wattage appliances on their own dedicated circuits. It’s actually a very clever system and basically every house is effectively supplied with both voltages. It’s often poorly utilized, yes, with a few practical limitations and a lot of limitations due to historical conventions, but as a technical design it’s really kind of the best of both worlds, and it could be utilized a lot more effectively than it is.

          If I was allowed to have an outlet with two 120V sockets, and one 240V European-style socket, there’s no technical reason I could not safely do that in a single outlet box. I could choose to plug in whatever I want at either voltage as long as it wasn’t more than 15 amps. Of course code would never allow that, because we consider the higher voltage “more dangerous” but it’s always right there, across two opposite phase 120V lines. We’re just not allowed to use it, except for large electrical appliances like air conditioners and clothes dryers. It’s frustrating.

          • Successful_Try543@feddit.org
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            2 months ago

            By that logic, Europe should be labeled with 400 V, as this is the voltage between any two of the three 230 V phases connected to each household.
            It is commonly used to power ovens or instant-on water heaters (Durchlauferhitzer, not kettles). Crafts, industry and even some households have IEC 60309 5-pin connectors for movable heavy gear.