Gas stoves fill the air in your home with particulate matter (pm), which has been found to increase cancer risk in the long term.

So next time you buy a stove, consider choosing an induction stove.

Btw, gas stoves being better or faster than induction is a myth. They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.

Obligatory Technology Connections video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUywI8YGy0Y

  • Tudsamfa@lemmy.world
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    Everything else being equal, of course electric and induction stoves are preferable to gas. I spend most of my life with an electric stove, no apartment I ever saw had induction, but I didn’t particularly like the gas stove I had to use for some years.

    But if you want the worst user experience ever, find an electric stove with touchscreen controls. What the hell, landlord, where did you even find that one?

    • bss03@infosec.pub
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      Having only cooked on radiant electric and gas, I gotta say I prefer the experience of cooking on gas, but not by enough to accept the documented risks, even if they are small. I hope at some point I’ll be able to have an induction range top as my primary.

  • Hildegarde@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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    Yes, but…

    Cooking itself also does this. If you are searing or frying that will also release dangerous particulates. Make sure you have and use a vent hood that vents outside the living space when you cook regardless of fuel.

    I can say from personal experience of using every kind of home stove, that gas is both the worst and slowest. Boiling water for my morning coffee is fastest on induction, which takes about half the time as resistive or radiant electric, and gas takes nearly three times longer than that.

    Though it might just be the american style of burner that directs the flame away from the center of the pan. I’ve not yet tried any other kind.

    • Rin@lemm.ee
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      How lomg does boiling water with a good kettle take? It takes like 60s to boil water for me.

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      It probably has to do with the type of burner I’m going to guess.

      We’ve had both induction and electric stoves for our whole lives. And the home we recently moved into has a fancy dancy natural gas stove with star shaped burners.

      It is night and day compared to anything else we’ve used before, water boils so much faster, I can actually sear a pen full of vegetables now instead of just making them mushy.

      Honestly I love it. I just wish the hood wasn’t so shitty and actually had a hood to capture all of the output from the stove.

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          Oh dear Lord. The hood has a filter???

          Yeah, that’s probably fucked up, none of the filters in anything in this house had been changed in years when we got the place. The filter for the furnace was black.

          And it’s been over a year since then I’m sure if the hood fan has a filter it’s absolutely disgusting.

          But I also meant that the hood could have a shape to it so that it collects air from the front burners which it doesn’t.

          • Sturgist@lemmy.ca
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            Yeah, fam… airborne grease particles. They’re the reason for hood fan filters, and the reason they clog. I would recommend getting a full box of nitrile gloves. And definitely clean the screen cover over the filter.

            Edit: re-shaped for collection of fumes from the front burners… Idk, sometimes people change the stove but not the hood, or get a stove and think the hood that would work best with it “clashes” and gets an objectively shit hood instead. Beauty is pain. Or some shit. Idk. I put stones on top of other stones for a living…

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          You can wash the oil out of metal hood-filters, in the dishwasher.

          (Extra: Heat-pump(reverse-cycle) air-conditioner indoor-filters can be removed, and then washed out with water, takes 5 minutes)

      • Boomer Humor Doomergod@lemmy.world
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        2 days ago

        I’ve got a gas stove that I love, but my shitty little induction hotplate that I hate for anything other than searing is better at searing. It’ll get a cast iron pan up to 700-800 degrees and my carbon steel gets to like 900, which is perfect for searing.

        But the damn thing turns off when I try to toss anything, and it can’t maintain a low temperature because the pulse-width modulation is 1Hz.

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    3 days ago

    The studies I read, there was no ventilation / exhaust fan. The point was that low income households using these stoves often don’t have proper ventilation and it makes them dangerous. I didn’t find much evidence that using them with proper ventilation is actually a serious problem.

    Further, cooking releases all sorts of chemicals from incomplete combustion in the air if something is burning, as well as the toxic chemicals release from nonstick cookware at very high temperatures, so cooking without ventilation is bad for your health would be the message I’d take away. I find most people are completely unaware of the hazard.

    • Krelis_@lemmy.world
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      Gas stoves without extraction are also a lot more likely to use a liquefied gas fuel (i.e. bottled butane/propane) rather than a plumbed in utility gas mains (typically methane) which makes a big difference in particulate emissions during combustion

    • MIDItheKID@lemmy.world
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      I’m not even sure I would call it “low income households”, more like “older building/houses”. Plenty of expensive apartment units are in old buildings (I’m looking at you NYC) without proper ventilation.

      I own a unit in a co-op in a building that is over 100 years old. I have a gas stove. There is a vent on my above-range microwave but it’s just a filter that blows it back into the room. I do a lot of cooking. I’m in danger.

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        Indeed. Charcoal filters are to catch some odours, the aluminum will catch some grease, but ‘natural gas’ is a whole lot more than methane, and think the same is true for propane.

    • Nalivai@lemmy.world
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      With proper ventilation you can do everything, you can work with hazardous gases and nuclear materials, if the ventilation is sufficient.

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          But if the flow is good enough, all the material will be sucked away before it has time to emit.

          • Krelis_@lemmy.world
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            Considering how dense radioactive materials typically are (i.e. not likely to disperse in the air as a powder under typical working conditions) you’re talking about some hyperbolic extraction fan there :)

    • IMALlama@lemmy.world
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      Very few residences have proper ventilation. In the US, a microwave above the stove is common. Microwave often do have a fan function, but the vast majority don’t vent outdoors. I doubt that running air through a very thin filter will do much good.

      • SirEDCaLot@lemmy.today
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        I hate this. I think it should be illegal. Or make a building code that there has to be a real extractor hood above the stove in all cases.

    • CrayonRosary@lemmy.world
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      Even charcoal grills inside are fine with proper ventilation. So you’re right, but your also not saying very much.

      • GaMEChld@lemmy.world
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        Yeah I’m not sure what the purpose of the comment was. To convince people to continue using gas on the off chance it won’t increase cancer risk? That’s not a compelling reason to use gas. It might not kill me.

    • bss03@infosec.pub
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      The few times I have prepared meat while trying to minimize the maillard reaction, it was still quite tasty.

      That said, I agree that cancer risk is relative, and you can’t avoid all risk, even if you are happy to try.

      I hear sous vide steak can be quite tasty.

      • PM_Your_Nudes_Please@lemmy.world
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        I hear sous vide steak can be quite tasty.

        It is the best way to prepare steak, but you still need to sear it afterwards. The steak can be cooked to a perfect medium-rare all the way through… But you still need to throw it on an ultra hot skillet with some butter and rosemary afterwards, to add the crust to the outside.

        • bss03@infosec.pub
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          The information I have says sous vide is not as good as a “standard” reverse sear in an oven. But, I haven’t tried either.

          My experience is that the “crust” on meat is entirely optional, and while I don’t aggressively avoid it, I don’t seek it out when I am preparing my own meat.

          • PM_Your_Nudes_Please@lemmy.world
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            I have tried both, and can confirm that sous vide is superior. With a traditional oven prep, you get a pink rare center and brown medium-well outer edge. With sous vide, you get a perfect light pink medium rare all the way through, with only a thin edge of brown from the sear. With sous vide, you just sort of roll it across the skillet on the way to the plate, to get that crust but avoid cooking the interior more.

            But to be clear, if you skip the sear with sous vide, your steak will be pink. You’ll miss out on a lot of flavor and mouthfeel from the sear. Sous vide technically cooks the meat, but doesn’t cause any browning (at least, not when cooking it to medium rare) because there isn’t enough heat to cause the Maillard reaction.

            • bss03@infosec.pub
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              Since the Maillard reaction and all its VOCs are the most likely source of meat-related cancer risk, I will gladly eat pink (but safely cooked) meat. In fact the center pink bits are my favorite parts a traditionally cooked steak / prime rib.

        • bss03@infosec.pub
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          Oh, my primary diet is beans, quinoa, nooch, and almond milk. Snacking is popcorn with, evoo, and Kernel Seasonings ™.

          I still eat meat not infrequently, but not everyday, and I rarely prepare it for myself. Still, I should avoid it more. It’s unnecessary, and even just a couple of years ago, I ate it less of it.

          The food I cook for my family does involve the maillard reaction for some of it (salmon patties, roasted veg, french fries, lasagna, pasta w/ meat sauce). I pressure cook the chicken and rice, so I think that mostly avoids maillard. I only eat on the family food to clean it out of the fridge when I don’t think it’s worth serving to anyone else.

          Thank you for your concern.

    • EmoDuck@sh.itjust.works
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      Induction is best in theory, however in practice it’s unfortunately often paired with these shitty buttonless capacitive controls that are harder to decipher that hieroglyphics as well as “”“smart”“” features

      They do still sell induction stoves with classic dumb buttons but they are either hard to come buy or aimed at professional chefs, which instantly adds two zeros to their price

      • BertramDitore@lemm.ee
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        Yeah, I hate the interfaces, but especially the super-loud non-mutable beeps which seem to be common on every model I’ve seen. My two-burner induction setup has analog knobs for temp control, which is awesome, but it stills beep when you turn them, with every single temperature increase. Drives me crazy.

        I’ll never go back to gas though. My new apartment came with a gorgeous brand new gas range, and it absolutely sucks compared to my $50 countertop induction.

      • CrayonRosary@lemmy.world
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        Induction also doesn’t work with aluminum items like a moka pot without an “induction adapter” which is just a steel plate.

    • GreenSofaBed@feddit.is
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      It’s the best, got one not too long ago, and same, I’ll never go back. Immediate temperature control.

        • tychosmoose@lemm.ee
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          It’s significantly immediate-er with induction - particularly going from cool to hot. Boil water in 2 minutes and handles don’t get hot in the process. And since nothing is heating except the metal of the base of the pan there is no residual heat from the cooktop parts or the sides of the pan when you turn it off. The temperature drops much faster.

          I went back to gas after 5 years cooking on induction and miss it a lot. Cooking something like pasta that requires boiling a sizeable quantity of water takes 2x or 3x longer on gas, even with a very powerful burner.

        • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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          I’ve never seen a gas stove with temp control. I’m not even sure how that would work. Controlling the amount of gas, sure, but not the temperature. In an induction stove, you can set it to 150 degrees, and it will hold that.

    • WIZARD POPE💫@lemmy.world
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      I cannot wait to finish uni and move to a place without a gas stove. The thing is they renoveated the kitchen just before I moved in but they decided to put in a gas stove for whatever reason.

  • mechoman444@lemmy.world
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    Appliance repairman here. What I tell my clients about gas in general is that: 1. When natural gas burns it create CO. 2. There is a none zero chance the thing can blow up.

    Electric cooking appliances have an absolute zero chance of either of these two things happening.

    I try to get people to switch to electric for these reasons some just like the aesthetic of cooking on gas.

    • 𝓔𝓶𝓶𝓲𝓮@lemm.ee
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      yeah blah blah blah but honestly… we are humans, we do crazy shit daily like driving 200 kph in a metal can while blasting rave or metal music. If something goes out in flames just say that new years eve came in early - if you are still alive. Life isn’t for the faint of heart for sure

        • 𝓔𝓶𝓶𝓲𝓮@lemm.ee
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          I hate anime but I enjoyed mad max fury road. It lets you appreciate innate insanity of surviving as a human that’s only temporarily suppressed by advanced civilization goodies. 9 meals away my friend, 9 meals away

          Humans are fundamentally crazy and I love it. We detonate massive amounts of explosives in the sky once a year?? for some reason, just cause we can. 12:00 at new years eve is the essence of humanity. Louder, brighter, higher, make it visible from the cosmos

          We invented nukes for some reason which crazily is a fundament of global peace. WTF

          There are no crazier motherfuckers in Milky Way I bet my car on that

          • mechoman444@lemmy.world
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            Humanity is a self-aware cosmic accident that tamed fire, split atoms, and hurls metal into the void—all while debating the ethics of imaginary beings and detonating fireworks to commemorate the arbitrary. We engineered peace through the perpetual threat of annihilation, invented gods and governments to impose order, then defied both for the thrill of rebellion. At midnight, we scream into the abyss, our cities pulsing like dying stars, not out of necessity but sheer, unrelenting audacity. If the universe watches, it does so in stunned silence.

            See… Can do it to.

            • 𝓔𝓶𝓶𝓲𝓮@lemm.ee
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              Yeah and better, I didn’t feel like putting the work. Great words right there.

              Humanity fucking rocks, lets shoot some shit

    • m4m4m4m4@lemmy.world
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      In my third world country the real issue is about costs. At this very moment cooking with gas is cheaper than cooking with electric.

      The gas provider company mandates an inspection on every home gas apppliance and the installation every 5 years to check for good connections and correct ventilation (if a home does not pass the checks the service is suspended), so I guess at least it diminishes the risks to some degree.

      But still since gas is going to be a lot expensive in the following weeks, maybe the tables will turn. But then you’ll need to get an electric stove.

      • Zwiebel@feddit.orgOP
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        Vent your home as much as possible when cooking, that should help with the health risks.

        Maybe you can get a small induction stove like this to use the gas stove less

        1000060659

        • Boomer Humor Doomergod@lemmy.world
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          Those things suck at keeping a small volume of liquid at a simmer. I always burn my rice on mine.

          Fantastic for boiling huge pots of water or searing things, though

    • Boomer Humor Doomergod@lemmy.world
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      I haven’t met an electric stove I like cooking on as much as gas. I’m willing to give induction a try, but I’m not dropping three grand on a stove and another grand to get a 240V line run to my kitchen just to find out the damn thing burns my marinara like every other electric stove and the induction hot plate I have with pulse-widths measured in seconds.

      My ideal stove would be induction, but it would be on one end of a long, thick sheet of stainless steel. There’d be a thermometer embedded in it, and if I wanted a proper low heat I could just move the pot the cooler part of the stovetop.

      Yes, the entire thing would be blisteringly hot, but I could get a nice, even heat and use any pot I wanted.

      Or I want an induction stove with remote temperature sensors and magnetic stirrers like in lab equipment so it knows how hot the pot is and can adjust accordingly, instead of just turning on and off at five second intervals.

      • rockstarmode@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        Just pointing out the person you replied to said CO which is carbon monoxide, not CO2

        The lack of formatting in their comment was confusing.

        That said, you’re right that CO (or CO2) aren’t the only harmful outputs of combustion.

    • Today@lemmy.world
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      We like to see it - fire, heat.

      We like using pans that may not be induction friendly.

      • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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        3 days ago

        Did you know that the vast majority of electric stovetops aren’t induction stovetops and you can use any pan you like on them? Personally, I would rather not breathe in carbon monoxide.

      • qaz@lemmy.world
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        Ceramic stoves also work on other types of pans and emit a bright red glow when they’re hot. However, they are less efficient.

          • Boomer Humor Doomergod@lemmy.world
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            Of all the stoves I’ve cooked on, ceramic stoves are the worst. No temperature control and anything that spills is instantly burned into the stovetop unless you want to spend your weekend scrubbing it out.

      • Kusimulkku@lemm.ee
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        We like to see it - fire, heat.

        Exact reason why I built a fire in my kitchen. Gives that camping feeling

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        I absolutely agree. I’m happy to switch to a new technology as long as it performs at least as well as my current implementation.

        I have a few cast iron and carbon steel pans, but most of my cooking vessels are thick copper (not copper inserts, full 3mm or more copper). Copper pans are superior to any other material (unless you prioritize cost) and are sadly incompatible with induction.

        Don’t even talk to me about electric element (non induction) stoves, they’re garbage for heat control.

      • Mouselemming@sh.itjust.works
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        Regular old coil electric stoves will be fine with, for instance, your old rough-bottomed cast iron pan. And despite no flame, the coils glow red hot like a horseshoe at a blacksmith’s, to hit that emotional spot.

        There is a little learning curve: they heat up and cool down more slowly, which can be a plus if you work with it.

        Note: If you have spilled, especially grease, be sure to lift the whole stovetop to clean underneath, nobody taught me that at first.

          • Mouselemming@sh.itjust.works
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            If it’s flat enough to connect. My pan has a raised 16 inch outer ring, well outside the induction area, and about a 2 inch diameter circle in the middle that touches the glass. No contact, no induction.

          • Mouselemming@sh.itjust.works
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            If you can afford them. And afford to replace old pots that don’t induct. For instance, cast iron is supposed to work, but my beloved old 16" cast iron murder weapon has a very uneven base so it barely connected and didn’t work at all.

            I will agree that new coil stoves are the low end of the line, so the oven will be more cheaply made as well.

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    They have certain specific advantages, but they are actually slower.

    This entirely depends on the stove. Consumer-lever stoves? Sure, definitely. Commercial stoves? Probably not. Commercial stoves put out 3-4x the BTUs of a high-end consumer stove, and usually can’t be installed in a home because they require significant shielding around them (so you don’t burn a building down) and a very high flow hood. The highest-end Wolf range has a single burner that has a maximum output of 10,000BTU, and costs a whopping $17,000; a fairly basic range top for a commercial kitchen has six burners that can all output 32,000BTU, and costs about $3700. For stir-frying specifically, you can get a single ring wok burners outputting 92,000-125,000BTU starting at about $700 for natural gas (and a helluva lot more if you use LP).

    Unfortunately, I can’t find a solid conversion between gas and induction stove capabilities.

    Oh, and FWIW - if you live somewhere with an unstable power grid, a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out, albeit you’ll need to light it manually. We lose power fairly regularly due to storms–usually only a day at a time, but sometimes as long as 3-4 days–and it would be a real hassle to have all electric appliances when there’s no power.

    • hinterlufer@lemmy.world
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      1 kW is 3412 BTU/h (=BTUs)

      Most induction stovetops have a boost function with around 3-4 kW (that’s about 13000 BTUs).

      BUT contrary to a gas stove top, almost all of the energy is actually put into the pot instead of the surroundings (only 30-40% of the energy from a gas stove is used to heat the pot). Meaning that a 4 kW induction cooktop should be comparable to a 40’000 BTUs gas stove (single burner).

      • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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        Okay, good deal. So, in theory, an induction stove that’s 3500W should be approaching the heating ability of a typical commercial range.

        • RvTV95XBeo@sh.itjust.works
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          Yes, and you can test it pretty easily by just seeing how much faster a pot of water boils on induction, on-par with the boiling times of commercial burners.

          Also, in a commercial setting, induction stoves cook just as effectively with less energy which means they don’t put out nearly as much heat to the environment. For a chef, its the difference between working all day in 90-degree spaces to 70-degree AC. I’m an engineer who works on a lot of commercial kitchens (among other things), and our chefs love the electric kitchens we’ve delivered.

          When you’re cooking for work, 8+ hours a day, being comfortable while you do it is a major game changer.

          The other thing they enjoy is the level of control and consistency - many professional induction ranges will let you control on temperature, which means you can quickly adjust to specific values in order to, say, sear a steak at 500, then finish it at 300 until it hits the desired internal temperature.

      • Kbobabob@lemmy.world
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        4 kW induction cooktop should be comparable to a 40’000 BTUs gas stove (single burner).

        So this is 4000 watts? What household circuit can support that?

        • warbond@lemmy.world
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          A random Better Homes and Gardens article clocks a 2000 square ft (185 square meters) home with central air conditioning at nearly 19,000 watts.

          https://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/electrical/how-to-check-your-homes-electrical-capacity/

          So I think most homes could handle that in general, but I don’t know about specific wiring requirements to handle that kind of power draw from just the kitchen. So do these things require that level of retrofit?

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            I’ve never had an induction stove, but I grew up with an electric stove - IIRC, it was on a separate fuse from the rest of the kitchen, and it had a weird plug because it needed a different voltage than most other appliances.

            I would assume the requirements for an induction stove are more or less the same… Switching from regular electric to induction would probably be easy, but gas to induction would take a lot more work.

        • JustEnoughDucks@feddit.nl
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          3 days ago

          Uhhh, tons of people in Europe are on 240V 3 phase power.

          My oven is 3100W and that is just fine. 3 phase consumer induction cooktops can easily go that high or higher.

          Once my 3 phase charging pole is put in, my car will charge at >10000W on a household circuit.

            • Zeoic@lemmy.world
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              Yes it is? The US very much has 220v for power hungry stuff. Things like ev chargers, central ac units, water heaters, electric clothes dryers, etc. It uses quite the variety of different plugs for the various amperages

              Edit: technically its 220v*

            • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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              3 days ago

              I’m confused as to why you’re so confident. The US has 3-phase power and homes get 120V from line 1 to the neutral (split-phase). If you use line 1 and 2, you get 240V. More than enough to power an oven. This is the case in every modern residential home in the US because they have a national building code.

              • Kbobabob@lemmy.world
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                3 days ago

                Yes, I’m aware that you can do this but there are not readily available outlets throughout a home for this, lol. Yes, let me move my stove or dryer so I can plug my wok induction stove in.

                • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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                  3 days ago

                  …You do know that an oven needs a dedicated outlet, yes? As in, if you don’t have a 30-50A receptacle in your home, one must be installed in order for you to have an oven. All new builds and most existing buildings have this dedicated outlet.

                  Edit: I see that you’re using stove and oven separately. I am talking about a range (oven and stovetop combined), since where I live these are most common and “oven” and “stovetop” are roughly interchangeable. Apologies for any confusion.

        • Aedis@lemmy.world
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          3 days ago

          Idk about my math but most American household circuits require stoves to be on a (220V) dual phase 18 amp circuit. Which should output around 8kW (18A * 220V)

          • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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            3 days ago

            Should be a lot more than 18A. Should be closer to 30A-50A to account for usage. 18A is what a kitchen receptacle would require and is so low that an oven on a 18A breaker would trip constantly. I’m Canadian so I mostly know the CEC but the NEC requirements in the USA are very similar.

            More info if you’re interested.

            • Aedis@lemmy.world
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              3 days ago

              I was thinking of a single dual phase outlet. Is it also higher amperage as well as voltage?

              • gonzo-rand19@moist.catsweat.com
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                I have to correct you (sorry) when you say “dual-phase” because homes in Canada (my country) and the US don’t have dual-phase electricity and haven’t for many, many decades. What you are talking about is called “split-phase” and is actually just a single phase that’s been split using a neutral/return conductor.

                To actually answer your question, yes, it’s higher amperage and higher voltage. Every circuit breaker is really just a “tap” into the panel in order to create a parallel circuit at the applied voltage (usually 120V) and whatever amperage the breaker is rated for (after ensuring that you’re using the correct size of breaker, of course).

                The main reason why amperage is really important for larger appliances is because the cable used to plug them in (whether that’s by literally plugging it in or by hardwiring it into the panel) needs to be thick enough not to overheat from regular use. When precautions aren’t taken, it’s pretty easy for the cable jacket to melt (happens around 90 degrees C) and for the bare wires to eventually short and/or start a fire.

                Obviously, a 18A breaker would prevent this, but it would also prevent you from using the oven.

        • Damage@feddit.it
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          Here in Italy most houses used to have contacts allowing max 3kW, but nowadays it’s more common to have 4.5kW (with smart utility meters which allow 30% over current for 3 hours).
          Still have to be careful if you’re running a washing machine or something like that, but it’s doable.

          Of course old houses may have insufficiently-sized wires, and that’s another can of worms.

    • hit_the_rails@reddthat.com
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      3 days ago

      a natural gas or LP stove will continue to function when the power is out

      LP camp stoves work without power and are a good backup for an electric stove

      • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        Yeah, a coleman (or equivalent) 2 burner camp stove combined with the adapter to use a full size propane tank is super handy. Combine it with a cast iron griddle, and you can functionally replicate a Blackstone for much much cheaper. It’s also way better for high heat cooking if you don’t have a good stove fan that actually vents outside.

        Also, sometimes when power goes out, gas does too (it’s still a grid that can fail).

        • HeyThisIsntTheYMCA@lemmy.world
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          we got a griddle attachment for my weber babyQ so we can take it camping and fry bacon on it. I’ll take that over a coleman any day.

    • Nomecks@lemmy.ca
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      3 days ago

      I have a Viking with 15k burners. No shielding needed, but huge upgrades to air exchange and a really powerful hood fan were.

      • HelixDab2@lemm.ee
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        Because it’s a consumer (really a prosumer) stove, that shielding is already built in. You wouldn’t want to install a commercial range in right next to wooden cabinets; it’s assumed that surfaces in commercial kitchens are all going to be non-porous, hard surfaces, usually stainless steel or ceramic.

  • purplemonkeymad@programming.dev
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    3 days ago

    We swapped out a gas for induction, it’s amazing to be able to put the temp down below very hot. Also very responsive to power changes, and can wipe clean.

    • Monzcarro@feddit.uk
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      I love my induction hob for all the reasons you mention. It is by far the best hob I’ve used - much better than gas - and I cook a lot. The only slight downside is ensuring you have the right pans, but they’re widely available. My enamelled cast iron casserole pot works a treat.

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    4 days ago

    idk - there should be some very clear cancer statistics to back up such a claim between countries like Sweden (<1% gas stoves, all are electric) vs other countries then.

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    4 days ago

    I read that running an extractor hood mitigates the risk a fair amount. Not completely, but enough that you shouldn’t worry if gas is your only option

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      Since this article is specifically about pm 2.5, I’m going to chime in and say I have a gas range with no extractor, and the only time my pm2.5 sensor picks anything up is when frying generates smoke and oil aerosols. That’s more a function of cooking temperature than fuel, and my induction hotplate will generate just as much.

      CO2? Definitely more with gas. Trace chemicals? Probably more with gas, but all the studies I’ve seen are just about running the cooktop, with no food, in a sealed room. Run the extraction hood or open a window when you cook - it’s not just heat source.

    • freebee@sh.itjust.works
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      Many people don’t turn the hood on until food itself is creating a lot of vapor because they are usually so noisy. Meaning the hood often helps very little in practice, although in theory you are right.

      • PennyRoyal@sh.itjust.works
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        2 days ago

        I’ve turned mine on, even if only on low, as I light the stove since first reading about this, but I think I’m a little more fact-absorbent than most people

        • YarHarSuperstar@lemmy.world
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          3 days ago

          My stove has a “hood”/fan that runs through the microwave and into a cabinet and that’s it. What can I do? After reading all this I intend to keep the window open nearby when cooking, and I always have two large air purifiers running in the living room attached to the kitchen.

          • evasive_chimpanzee@lemmy.world
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            For a lot of these large scale, epidemiological findings, it’s important to remember that the effects are small enough that you pick them up on a population level over a lifetime. I’d say that if you can, find a way to properly vent your stove outside if you are doing some home improvement. If you are replacing your stove, consider induction instead, and in the meantime, having an air purifier is good. Opening a window is probably also good. Other than that, I wouldn’t be super alarmed. Obviously, if you have little kids or something, you might have a lower tolerance for potential pollution, but it’s good to think about these things in context. Alcohol causes cancer, but everyone still drinks.

            • YarHarSuperstar@lemmy.world
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              Thank you, that is a great answer that helps me both feel better and take steps if necessary. 10/10 would ask again.

              Edit: sorry I know this sounds sarcastic but I really am grateful.

  • Westcoastdg@lemmy.ca
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    Alright so you screwed up posting this, because I’m actively looking for a dual induction burner setup, and now I want your advice. Ideally I want a “linked” dual burner so that I can put a square skillet pan across both burners, there’s basically like one of those online, and then a bunch of dual burners that are not linked and slightly different power on either side. Wat do? Anyone have a good experience with this situation yet?

      • boonhet@lemm.ee
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        IT HAS KNOBS IT HAS KNOBS ITHASKNOBS OHMYGOD

        Sorry, I got a bit over-excited. I hate capacitive touch controls in absolutely anything with a passion and I in particular hate them on my stove because I don’t want my stove to start beeping when I wipe it, nor do I want the controls to malfunction any time they get wet because I accidentally overboil the water.

        Receives Software Updates

        I feel iffy about this part though. I don’t want my stove to have software on it.

        Tbh I feel iffy about the whole thing. 6 grand plus tax, software updates… And how does the magnet knob thingy work? Can I be sure it’s as reliable as a normal knob?

      • jpeps@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        This looks brilliant in a lot of ways. For me being able to set a precise temperature would be incredible. I have some doubts about the battery system though. I can understand the utility but surely it will degrade over time? I can’t see how it’s the last stove top I’ll ever need. The battery combined with the software update thing makes it feel like another product I’ll have to rebuy every 3 years or so.

          • jpeps@lemmy.world
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            2 days ago

            Maybe I’m crazy as well but 10kW doesn’t seem like a huge deal to me either? Why do I need a battery for that? I’m in the UK and my shower draws 10kW all by its little self.

      • Westcoastdg@lemmy.ca
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        3 days ago

        That one does look amazing! I’m unfortunately limited to a portable one in an apartment. Added to the bucket list though for sure!

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    Our new-build house came with a gas stove+oven. Our overhead microwave does vent to the outside of the house so hopefully it helps a bit. The worst part is the oven’s vents face the front, so the fumes literally go up to your face if you’re standing in front of it. So when we use the oven, we try to keep distance and hope the the microwave vent sucks up as much fumes as possible.

    • plaguesandbacon@lemmy.ca
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      Overhead microwaves are terrible at venting. Lots of places don’t allow over the range microwaves over gas stoves in their building code. If you can afford to do so, consider getting a proper hood fan installed

      • edric@lemm.ee
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        Yup, I’m definitely looking into upgrading to a proper hood fan in the near future.

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    The only thing I know gas stoves to be better at than other methods is traditional wok. But that’s hardly a reason to jeopardize your health for.